If i were to cover everything about fashion colors, this would be a novel. (You're like wtf, this is a novel) This post is going to be used to address the many questions and concerns my guests have about these vibrant and pastel colors.
What is a fashion color? Fashion colors are any color of the rainbow that can be vivid, pastel or smokey. Basically anything that is not a natural hair color.
If I could sum up a sentence to tell someone if they are an ideal candidate for a fashion color, it would go something like this: if you are not willing to sit through a long, expensive process or invest in the right products to properly care for a fashion color, you are probably not the ideal client. Various extensive steps and processes are performed and a lot of products and treatments are utilized in these processes. In a stylist's world, especially, time is money resulting in higher-ticket services.
A few things you will want to ask yourself before considering getting a fashion color, whether that be all over or even just a few pieces here and there:
1. Is my hair healthy enough to withstand the process of lightening?
2. How many color processes has my hair had?
3. How often has my hair had color on it?
4. How often do I get my color
5. Do I use professional color?
6. What type of client am I? Am I the type to care for my hair and invest in the right products to prolong color?
7. How often do I shampoo?
Lightness or darkness of the hair is categorized by levels 1-10, 1 being the darkest or black and 10 being pale blonde. Your hair will need to be a certain level to achieve the desired color. Each color may require a different level of lightness. i.e. if you want to be a dark red, your hair would need to be at least a level 6 or 7 to achieve a rich vibrant color that doesn't drown. However, if you want a silver tone, any pastel for that matter, your hair has to be at least a level 9, ideally a level 10. That is why it is unfortunate when a client who has been box coloring their hair for 5 years will have a MUCH longer and more difficult journey to get to a desired color that is vivid or pastel.
\***HOT ASS TIP*** DO NOT LIE TO YOUR STYLIST---WE ALWAYS KNOW!!!!!!! I've witnessed and heard stories about chemical reactions gone wrong. Girl, I don't ask if you use box dye to call you out. I do it so you leave with hair on your head. Needless to say, certain chemicals can react with the professional lighteners and colors stylists use, thus resulting in inconsistent color. Worse than that it can lead to hair breakage, hair loss, and burnt hair.
Now picture a white poster board. You can paint any color under the sun onto it and the colors will show up true to tone. Now imagine a pale, pale yellow index card. You may have to use a little color theory 101 to make sure you consider that when you mix blue and yellow, it makes green. Therefore, if you have a brown or black poster board, it will truly be a struggle to get color to show up on something that dark. So, you lighten the hair to get it to a desired level. Even with the strongest efforts and depending on the state of the hair in consideration sometimes some things are just not able to be achieved, especially not quickly.
Vivid color pros & cons list:
-they are easier to achieve -they can bleed onto light fabrics the first couple shampoos
-they are vibrant and rich -they can fade very quickly
-the hair doesn't have to be level 8+ -they can look muddy or dull if correct level isn't achieved
Pastel color pros & cons list:
-they are easier to keep looking fresh -the hair has to be at least a level 8 or 9
-they can be recycled from a vivid color -hair isn't as shiny
-hair is still light for people too scared to commit -the hair is more susceptible to breakage
Tonal shampoos and conditioners are a great way to keep your fashion color in check while still maintaining a healthy and regular shampoo routine. Although less is more when it comes to shampooing with fashion colors, it is still possible to regularly cleanse the hair while still being able to use hot water.
Please keep in mind, most tonal shampoos have a higher pH of about 5.5, so it is best to either use a regular sulfate-free conditioner with this OR use a tonal conditioner if hair repair is a must. **If you are or ever will be my client, I beg of you please do not use "Shimmer Lights" from Sally's. It will demolish your blonde hair**
oVertone conditioner is another great product with a lot more versatility. They have every color, every shade. Affordable as hell and it is treating the hair while boosting your color.
IGK makes fun purple toning drops called "Mixed Feelings". You can put them in dry or wet, add in product or use topically onto WET hair. (can be used dry but absorbs very quickly)
My go-to purple shampoo is Fanola "No-Yellow" shampoo. This by far has been, in my professional experience, the most effective purple shampoo I've used, and I've used a ton. "Barcelona" by Pulp Riot is
good, and Amika "Bust Your Brass" is phenomenal as well.
Keep heat off of your fashion colors as much as you possibly can. If you must, as always use heat protector. You may experience being able to not have to shampoo as often after a huge process, but if you are still a frequent shampooer just use the above tips to guide you. Purple will cancel out yellow, blue will cancel out orange. Please be wary of blue, because if you tone with blue and your hair still has yellow tones present, they will become green.
Take care of your hair, and it will be nice to you back. Don't ever do fashion colors at home. There are many over-the-counter hair dyes that are direct and cheap, but I assure you they are cheap for a reason. Let a professional do it. In my salon, I use 3 direct dye lines for fashion colors. Pulp Riot, Pravana & Guy Tang.
When you're a kid, no one lets you play and have fun with your hair because you're too young. When you're grown no one lets you play with your hair because of a job or school. Then when can you do it? That's why I choose to say fuck it, and do it. Because why not?? Love that mermaid hair. Get that unicorn hair girl, and werk.