7 Days of Dirty Hair
Anyone who knows me knows I am Queen of Unwashed Hair. I wanted to help out where I can, and I get a lot of questions about products and styles for dirty hair. I am introducing 3 products from my favorite professional haircare line IGK. I will delve more into the company, their products, and why I carry them in
my salon in a future blog post, so for now bear with me and know this line will basically be all I ever use. There will be time to get to know the I's, the G and the K in the upcoming weeks. For dirty hair to "work" for you, you need to find what corresponds well with your hair. IGK has 3 lovely dry shampoos that
all have different properties to cater to various needs and each individual client. Though the 3 have different smells, their smells are all similar in that they have a muskier scent that doesn't linger but definitely catches attention in a good way.
"Jet Lag" is an invisible dry shampoo, so no white or flakey residue in the root. It gives a fair amount of volume and texture, and I recommend this for fine hair or very clean hair. "Direct Flight", my personal favorite, is a multi-tasking matcha dry shampoo. Because it contains turmeric, this will give you pretty good volume and a good amount of texture while still feeling freshly cleansed. *Hot tip, if you spray Direct Flight at the root after being freshly shampooed and dried fully, it will give your hair a good 24 hour window where your hair doesn't absorb oils from the scalp.* This is more a second-third
day product to keep your bomb style going a little extra mileage. Last but not least, we have "First Class". This is a charcoal detox dry shampoo which is their most heavy-duty dry shampoo. This will absorb and detox all the "nasty" from your hair while cooling the scalp. I recommend this to my clients who workout
a lot and don't want to shampoo everyday. Brush this one after spraying, but a bonus is that it removes the odors from the scalp leading everyone to believe you just spent time shampooing and styling when all you did was spray a can. Beautiful.
Day one we are going to call Monday, having shampooed our hair on Sunday. No product, no heat styling, only brushing out. If you are a regular "shampooer-every-dayer", this may cause you some unfamiliar anxiety. Grab your dry shampoos and hair ties and get ready for a week's worth of dirty hair.
I have a handful of clients who will sometimes use only water in the shower...PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS. Your hair naturally has a pH level of about 5, which is a fairly acidic level in which to be. Water already has a high pH level as well, which means you are fighting fire with fire in this case. If you "HAVE" to wet your hair in the shower, at least put a small amount of conditioner on the tips of your hair to balance out the pH and your hair doesn't dry in unwanted tangles. These are just some tricks of the trade that can help you get through that hellacious week that keeps running out of hours in the days.
In the evenings we are going to be tying up our hair in the shower (unless we have a shower cap) to keep water out of our hair. If you're a morning routine person with your showers, just style as normal as listed below after protecting it from getting wet. You can sleep with a silk or cotton hair wrap, or just a 100% cotton t-shirt or pillowcase wrapped around your hair. Don't just take it and flip it shower-turban style. You can flip, but take the time to mimic the shape it currently holds. If straight, wrap your hair literally around the back of your head with the wrap. If curly, it won't affect it too much if you wrap it another
way, but try to mimic an almost braid-like pattern. If you're like me and 90% of the time are lazy, just put it up with a loose elastic preferably with no metal or glue.
When you wake up Monday, take it down and brush it, and spritz a decent bit of Jet Lag in the hair, don't overdo it or spray too closely. Wear it down, or half up to keep as much hair out of the face to limit touching to keep it oil free. Again, loose elastic of clips or pins are great.
Tuesday is fun because first day hair sucks. Too clean, too limp, too lifeless. Day 2 hair is fabulous because it has a little more spice than yesterday. Today we can wear curls. First thing is first...please use a heat protector of some kind. My favorite go-to heat protector is "blockade" by Amika. Add some Jet Lag to the roots especially, again not too closely, and use whatever method of styling you use to achieve curls. Bonus points for heat free styling...i.e. rollers or braids. Any roller will do, but I prefer the rubber bendable rods for comfort and curl size.
On Wednesdays we wear pink. Kidding, I wear black everyday. But with your hair, use Direct Flight today. By now you will feel a little more texture in the root, but the dry shampoo will work to absorb the oils throughout the day to prevent further oils from disturbing the hair. If your curls have fallen too much, recurl front face-framing pieces to create the illusion that you gave a shit, but really we are just not trying to shampoo today. Pinning away from the face is also an option at this point.
Thursday is the grand finale for Direct Flight on our dirty journey. For people who hate or can't braid, you're going to be pretty bummed. This one's a braid. Or two. I like to do looser boho braids. Sometimes in the back I can veer my braid off to the side, sometimes I do 2 french braids, just depends what I am in
the mood for. Braids are super easy, super quick, and super stylish. Throw on a cute fedora if the top is too oily looking after Direct Flight.
By Friday it's time to pull out the big guns. At this point you will begin to feel pretty full texture at your root, enter First Class. This dry shampoo will be your hair's saving grace by reviving a few days of wear, giving you some pretty bomb volume and making your hair smell delicious. Style any way your hair
will allow. Braids, ponys, space buns if you're feeling ballsy, hats so you can get away just curling the ends. Here is your opportunity to have creative control, because your hair will tell you more than I can if you've made it this far.
Saturday, it's the freakin weekend and I don't know about your weekends but for stylists AIN'T NOBODY GOT TIME FOR SHAMPOOING THEIR OWN HAIR GIRL OK. My classic dirty ass hair style that your hair almost needs to be dirty for. This is where we introduce the "sock bun". I use quotes because I don't actually use anything in my hair to give it added volume, just tease it, add product, pin it and keep it moving. It is that simple. Dry shampoo is no way required at this point for benefits other than eliminating odor. Your scalp will start to smell, and this will keep it fresh all day. However you can achieve the bun look, try several ways to see what works best for you at home. They sell products to put under your ponytail to create the illusion but I prefer my method.
What I do is start with a high pony. I take my hair flip it, brush it all to the top center and smooth out all the sides, top and back. Imagine looking at your ponytail from an aerial view, and split your ponytail into 4 sections, one towards the front, back, and one on each side. Take each section and back-comb
underneath the section towards your scalp. Once you look like you have 4 actual rat's nests on your head, very gently and carefully brush out ONLY THE TOP LAYER of each of the 4 sections just to smooth out the top, which is the part people will see. So basically, the 4 sections will be smooth on top and a mess underneath, but you take the top of each section (the now smooth part) and tuck it underneath the messy part where the base of your ponytail is. Bobby pin the section flat and parallel to the section you are pinning. Spray with hairspray only if your hair is super unruly or crazy. This is my favorite style because you can dress it up or wear it messy, either way no one will know you have a week old head of hair stankin' underneath this divine bun.
Sunday, bitch. You made it a week, watch your shows, take a nap, and wash that hair girl. It's dirty AF.